Santenay Birthday

Tuesday, August 17th

Happy birthday to me! Great place to celebrate; in the place where I was born. The morning began with the sun breaking through the clouds and warmer than yesterday. It was a gorgeous morning and and wanted to have my breakfast of croissant and cafe au lait out on the patio in the beautiful garden where you can hear the river running past. It was so lovely that we went for a long walk around the town, starting in the opposite direction that we usually go.

We went round the back of the property and look at the newly placed plaque of the Thomas Jefferson Bridge. It was placed to mark the 220th anniversary of the French Revolution and recognize that he was a supporter and that while travelling through France he passed through Chagny. Each spring the town has a Fete des Voisins, Neighbours Party, and each neighbourhood has a pot luck get together in some common area and this neighbourhood set up tables and enjoyed their party here in 2010.

We walked over the bridge and along one of the backstreets that is lined with vegetable gardens on each side and then around the town. We stopped to have a look in the pastry shop windows. They all have the lastest craze: macarons, in many flavours and colours. We have promised to buy some in THE macaroon shop of macaroon shops, Laduree in Paris. We hope the line ups are not as long as they were at the beginning of our trip. I would like to buy some here at one third of the price just to see the taste difference.

We also went into the Eglise S. Martin to have a look around and I picked up a pamphlet that they have available for any visitors. The church was started in the Romanesque style then Gothic additions were made. Since its earliest parts were from the 700's you can expect a few style changes. We made it outside just as the noon bells were beginning to ring, We’d better finish our walk as it is certain that Celeste will have lunch ready. Boy am I being spoiled!

As they remembered that it was my birthday, Umberto had chilled a bottle of Cremant de Bourgogne from their Domaine, the sparkling wine that is made in the area. It was not the Brut but the Extra Brut, and since I am not a fan of sweet wines, absolutely perfect for me. It was crisp and clear taste, and refreshingly cool and went well with the lunch. Celeste had made a slowly simmered sauce of tomatoes fresh from her garden in which she had braised sausages made of chicken which she had bought from the market the day before. This sauce was served on gemelli pasta and delicious. We next had the sausage with a salad and the white sparkling wine was a terrific contrast for the rich sauce and meat. We ended with cheese and cantaloupe. I looked at the clock; 3 p.m.

Someone stopped by to pick up a case of the sparkling wine for a family reunion and I really could recommend the stuff. We had finished the bottle and I think that my glass had been filled a little bit too much. I didn't want to overdo it as we were going to visit the owners of the vineyard where my dad and uncle worked in Santenay and of course they would be expecting us to have a glass with them too. We left for the 10 minute drive to Santenay to be there at 4p.m.

They had left the gate open for us and received us so warmly. He always loves to talk about my dad and uncle Vito and all the things he remembers about them. How they used to work in the cave and the vineyards and how my dad could do so many things. How uncle Vito liked to go fishing and how my dad crocheted him a pair of gloves. We have been to visit it them over the years and he never forgets what good people they were. He was very sad to learn of uncle Vito's passing as he was still with us last time I was here.

We were so engrossed in our conversation and then he suddently realized that they hadn't offered us any refreshment. His wife said 'how sad in the house of a vintener and not even a glass of wine to drink' so off he went and brought in the tray with different crackers and sesame breadsticks (by the way they taste really good with wine) and then he opened a bottle of Santenay Les Gravieres 2003. OMG! Silky smooth taste, what can I say , it is a premier cru. The time just slipped by and three hours later we said our good byes and I took a couple of pictures of the hills of vineyards that can be seen from their front terrace. Just as we were leaving he gave Ross a great map of all the wines of the area, and the appellation of each vineyard. He was impressed with Ross's wine knowledge and said that he should have some fun with the map. Reluctanly I said goodbye, it is so nice to talk to someone who knew me from the time I was born and someone who has so many stories to tell about my dad and uncle, it brings them back to me for a little while.

We drove down the narrow Rue de la Forge, past the Eglise of St. Jean and through the Place. I looked at the boulangerie that my mom would buy bread at, the cafe where my dad would go and then past the gate of the house we lived in. A lovely way to spend a birthday afternoon.

Back at Celeste's we sat around and chatted and laughed and she reminded me to cut some bay leaves from her tree to take home. Don't tell anyone but I am sneaking them into the country. The flavour that these bay leaves give to my soups and stews is amazing. Perhaps I will make you a boeuf bourguignon to share.

A light dinner with the wonderful grilled eggplant, salad, cheese, a great chewy baguette and of course another bottle of wine. Is this our third today? A white Bouzeron from the Domaine Pagnotta. This is a relatively new production for them and is made with Aligote grapes. It is lighter in taste, not so green in flavour but with a light smoky finish. Perfect end to a perfect day. Tomorrow morning packing and on the road again. It will be sad to leave the wonderful hospitality of Celeste and Umberto. I hope that their sons can convince them to come visit us in Canada.